Frappato: a heat resistant grape variety

A red grape variety, it is perfectly adapted to the terroir and climate of this hot region – one of the hottest of all Italy – where it has been producing high quality wines since at least the seventeenth century. The foremost producer in this part of Sicily is Santa Tresa, founded in 1697 and a specialist producer of wines from this interesting variety. Expertly managed by the winemaker Stefano Girelli, Santa Tresa produces a range of unique wines, showing the versatility of expression of Frappato, often under extreme climatic conditions. Talking with Stefano in a recent Zoom meeting, it is evident that this variety is exceptionally resistant to these extremes. During this year, there was no rain for five months and temperatures reached 49C for seven days in a row. Challenging conditions for both the vines and the winemaker.

Due to the intense heat, the foliage is left on the vines to protect the grapes up to the very last minute before harvest. A peculiarity of Frappato is that not all the grapes ripen at the same time on the same bunch. The winemaker must thus decide on the optimum time to harvest with a balance of ripeness and acidity. Once ripe, the harvest then has to be undertaken – by hand – rapidly to prevent over-ripeness and consequently flabby wines.

The hot grapes are taken to the winery where they are chilled overnight prior to pressing or fermentation, so as to control fermentation temperature and produce fine, elegant wines. Indeed, the wines of Santa Tresa are so carefully made, that their freshness, elegance and minerality belies the fact that they come from such an extremely hot climate. Hats off to the winemaker! The Santa Tresa estate is entirely organic, paying great attention to preservation of the environment. Surprisingly in this climate, the estate produces a sparkling rosé, the first of its kind in this part of Italy. Pale, dry and elegant, it has hints of wild strawberries and a mineral finish. Santa Tresa Il Frappato Spumante Rosé is available from specialist merchants at around £14 a bottle.

In Sicily, the locals drink red Frappato wine with fish, with which it pairs perfectly, Rina Russa Frappato is a light red wine, with low tannins, bright fruit and a bright ruby colour. Like some Pinot Noir wines, it can be served slightly chilled and is thus perfect with fish and seafood. Soft and fruity, with good balancing acidity and a light touch. Santa Tresa Frappato is available from Ocado at around £11. Red cherries and wild strawberry flavours, soft and elegant.

The flagship wine from Santa Tresa is the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, made from a blend of Frappato with Nero d’Avola and aged in large oak casks. Well balanced with good depth of fruit flavour, it is made with some partially dried grapes which are left on the vine. Morello cherry and raspberry flavours with a touch of spice. Certified DOCG back in 1950, one of the top certifications and the only one on Sicily. Available from the Wine Society until recently, it is on Amazon from around £16 per bottle.